Thu, 07 Jul 2005
The Least Fixed Point Motorcycle Club conquer Scandinavia, part 1
Day One
After last minute flurrying to tidy and pack, I packed up my bonnie
Bonneville and went to meet TonyG at his in Mile End.
The ride to Harwich
was uneventful, and we arrived a full hour before
check-in. With motorbikes we were loaded first, though by the time
we'd improvised stabilisation schemes with ratchets and straps and
chocks, all the car drivers had parked up and were harassing the
dour bartender.
The sailing was fairly smooth, so in the end it wasn't concern for our bikes that kept us awake. It was the comedic duo of deranged walruses sharing the four berth cabin with us. Even the most outrageous impression of a whale dying from tuberculosis would not be a patch on one man's snoring; each intake of breath was a unique landscape of sound. In comparison, the other man was pedestrian, but made it up in doggedness. The earplugs saw action before we'd even started touring.
Day TwoWe arrived in Esbjerg around noon, on the deck gawping at the huge windfarms. After the almost invisible customs and border control we hopped straight on the E20 East. Sometime in the afternoon we stopped in Odense for lunch, giving TonyG a chance to see just how garbled Danish sounds to a Swedish speaker, and the girl in the bakery the inverse experience.
There is a two-part
bridge joining Funen
with Zealand; we slowed a bit and kept in the right-most lane to
enjoy the crossings, along with some of the other traffic.
After the bridge to Zealand there was another section of motorway
all the way to Copenhagen, but we exited early and went to Køge
on the Eastern coast. A couple of tins of Tuborg and some camp-stove-cooked
goulash rounded off the day.
Usually, when camping the sun is one's alarm. Waking just after 5am the only reasonable reaction is to declare a sleep in, and so it happened that we left Køge a little late and covered not so much ground.
We did manage to cross over into Sweden though, skirting around
Copenhagen and taking the long long
bridge to Malmö
(Øresundsbron).
The road outside of Malmö had substantial roadworks and wasn't
much fun, so we stopped after a few miles in historic Lund to fuel
up and get some currency ('historic', we decided, due to the pretty
but horrible to ride on paved streets).
Since it was early evening by then we settled on camping at
Ringjöstrand near Hörby.
Despite waking very early and resisting the urge to sleep the morning out, we dallied with pastries and doughnuts and Ringjöstrand ate our dust late morning. From Hörby we continued following the E22 until it met the Southeast coast at Kristianstad, then kept near the sea through Karlskrona and ice lollies at the world's most soulless mini-golf (called "Adventure Golf", despite the clear influence of graph paper and high school physics exams rather than, say, Indiana Jones). Eventually we fetched up at Kalmar, a port town with very pretty buildings and lots of greenery.
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