Sat, 25 Mar 2006
Here's to The Dog
Our local, the Dog and Six Stories (variously 'The Dog', 'The Dog and
Yellow Sign', 'The Dog and Four Horsemen', ad infinitum), has shut
down. I think it is being rebuilt as flats.
The Dog wasn't your typical London pub; or rather it was, in the
sense that it had idiosyncrasies that we as locals came to almost
delight in. The usually sparsely populated upstairs was a blessing if
you wanted a quiet game of pool (on one of the five tables). They
didn't serve food — but then they didn't mind if you brought
some yourself. Even oily, smelly pizza from across the road.
More often than not, we'd be passing the Dog on the way to or from West
Hampstead and step inside for a one. There are recycling bins just
beside it as well, in case one needs an excuse to be going that way.
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The Least Fixed Point Motorcycle Club conquer Scandinavia, part 2
While wandering around the market square in Kalmar looking for
somewhere to have a drink (there wasn't so much a lack of bars, more
a lack of appealling bars) and some dinner, we ran into another biker
who had spotted us in the information center earlier. Chad is an American
who teaches at the international school in Göteborg. With the
compelling motto "Go big or go home", Chad coerced us into
a night of outlandish drinking.
Day Five
Hence or otherwise, Thursday was a lazy day. At 2pm we enquired as
to the check-out time at the hostel, and made the desperately hard
call of staying put for another night. Instead of more motorways,
then, we did a bit of city riding and took TonyG's bike to a
mechanic to tighten the chain and check the alignment. Since it was
still early afternoon, we made a day trip of it and traversed
another long bridge to Öland (literally: 'Island-land'). There
are around twenty-three thousand people spread out across
Öland, in tiny villages stretched out along sections of road.
The benefit of staying a second night at the hostel is that we could
do a mid-tour load of washing, and confidently eat dinner at the
adjacent restaurant.
Day Six
Breakfast on the sixth day was the typical smorgasbord of cold
meats, cheese and inappropriate bread. Managing an early start for
once, we headed North initially but turned West and took B roads
towards the middle of Småland.
The settlement of Korrö hosts a folk music festival each year,
and we decided on
there for a stop. Even though there were a few usable hours left,
we decided to take it easy and put ourselves up in a bunk room. The
festival was a few weeks away but the regular facilities were all
running: We rented a canoe and paddled down then back up the river,
looked around the water-wheel-powered sawmill, then cooked pytt i
panna with eggs on a real stovetop in the hostel kitchen.
Day Seven
In the morning it turned out that leaving my keys in the ignition of
my bike, aside from making it likely that it would be stolen (which
it wasn't), also made it likely that the battery would be too
drained to power the starter motor (which it was). Luckily my
inarticulations in Swenglish were enough to convince the girl
running the Kaffestugar that I was worth helping and that what the
scenario required was a set of jumper leads.
A short round trip was sufficient to charge the battery enough to
start the bike reliably, and we returned the jumper leads and bid a
subdued farewell to Korrö. By the time we'd gone the few miles
to Rävemåla and turned West again, it was raining sporadically;
after a ride North through some beautiful lakelands and some appalling
forestry roads, it was ready to commit to a persistent downpour.
Naturally once we'd gone through the process of trying to wait it
out, giving up, ferrying things back and forth between the bikes
on the road and shelter in the lea of trees on the bank, getting
changed into wet weather kit and finally riding carefully on some
slick and patchy roads for a few miles — it cleared up. At
least, we managed to outrun the stormclouds somewhere around Ljundby.
After a brief and bitter stop to change back out of the wet weather
kit, we pushed on to Halmstad on the West coast.
It became apparent upon arriving at
Tylösands what it was that all the Swedish youth not behind
a counter or on the other coast were doing: Playing atrocious 80s
music from loudly competing ghettoblasters at our end of the camp
ground.
Day Eight
If the sun was insufficient (which our carefully positioned tent
assured), the loud music and tween chitchat certainly made up for
it, and we were irrevocably awake early. Shortly, though, the sense
of urgency departed with the tweens, and we departed ourselves some
time around noon. I managed a walk down to the curiously
tween-neglected beach. Kids were playing handball on the sand,
while some well-kept beach volleyball courts were empty — not
for the first time that day I furrowed my brow in consideration of
the future of Swedish youth.
Out of Halmstad we spent some time taking coastal roads down towards
Ängelholm, zipping through or stopping in pretty little beach
settlements such as Kattvik on the very point of a peninsula. The winding roads and not a lot of traffic made it plenty fun, and we gave scarce attention to directions until hunger and a declining sense of progress spurred us on to the next big town.
Ängelholm's central square served well as a late lunch spot, and we determined to enquire at Helsingborg about the car ferry to Denmark. Once we arrived it turned out the next ferry was departing in five minutes, so we bought tickets, drove on board, and quit Sweden.
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